So.... we arrived into Varanasi after a killer bus ride from Pokhara to Sunauli at the Nepal/India Border, then onto Gorakphur by local bus and then by night train, leaving us to arrive at 5.30 am into Varanasi Train Station. This early arrival allowed us to soak up the city (and our first real morning in India), whilst it was reasonably still. Actually Varanasi is never totally still with its temple bells chiming and ceremonies abound at all hours. But we had arrived before sunrise giving us a perfect opportunity to see the city awaken to all its glory.
Sunrise over the Ganges
Wow!!! there is just so much to say about Varanasi that i don't even know how to begin. It's claim to fame is the holiest city in India.
Sunrise over the GangesIt is where there are nearly 100 ghats leading into the Holy River Ganges. The most famous of these being the burning ghats, of which there are 2, where up to 300 cremations take place per day 365 days a year.
Varanasi is a holy city in Hinduism, being one of the most sacred pilgrimage places for Hindus (more than 1,000,000 pilgrims visit each year) who believe that bathing in Ganga ( Ganges)remits sins. For Hindus, Varanasi is the holiest place to be cremated (with remains being tossed into the river afterwards) ensuring the release of a person's soul from the cycle of its re-incarnation.
It was obvious that we were in India now.... which amongst so much more, means holy cows walking around all over the place, having full reign (though they do that in Nepal too) in all the tiny alleyways of Varanasi.
So we began our day watching the sunrise with a little walk along the ghats up to the burning ghat where we witnessed cremations at varying stages of burning. We were given a private informative "tour" if you can call it that, about the traditions and particulars of the cremation ceremonies by a guide who easily spotted us amongst all the men. Women mourning their their families are not allowed to attend the burning ceremonies apparently because they "cry too much". We learnt all about the ceremonies, all about the sandalwood (100kg is required for each body) and its related costs. Sandalwood is used to cover up the smell of the burning corpse and is brought in by boats from down the river daily. The burning ghat is privately owned and its extremely expensive to be cremated there and even more so if you are a foreigner.
It is hard to describe in words the feeling of walking around the burning bodies whilst the cremations were taking place, amongst the male family members carrying out their own ceremonies. Trying to not look like a tourist and give our full respect (tis impossible to not look like a tourist though when you are obviously white and female) i had the same feeling wash over me as i had my last time in Varanasi when i was there in 2000.
This is a city which represents the place between life and death. Yes its true that bodies to be cremated here usually arrive already lifeless, having been brought here from all over India, but there is a heavy feeling that this is where the actual movement onto and into another world/realm takes place. In my opinion anyway.
But there is oh so much more to Varanasi than burning bodies and reincarnation, for which the city is most famous. At the ghats, along the river, the activity present in a normal day is endless.
Indian kids flying kites high in the sky competing against each other to get their kite the highest, people washing themselves and their clothes, others performing puja cleansing ceremonies in the water, sadhus meditating amongst the madness, families (and tourists) taking boat trips up and down the ganges, tourist snapping pictures and thinking about their next meal at the german bakery**, cows and goats searching for snacks, some even dressed up for the occasion*.
A trip to Varanasi, i beleive, is a must on everyone's itinerary coming to India. The city gives more insight into the Indian culture than any other city and is almost indescribable simply because there is just so much going on. Like every other Indian city you have your standard rickshaw drivers quoting extortionate prices to tourists and typical street markets, but Varanasi is also famous for it's silk factories and silk shops in which Do and i managed to buy ourselves a gorgeous scarf each. Or was it 2 each? :)
A Sadhu meditating at the Main Ghat. Sadhus are holy men who have renounced everything (family and possessions) and usually travel from city to city, living through donation only, carrying each a stick and tin can to collect their donations in. They are often bearded with dreadlocks piled high atop their heads. Also, it is said that, criminals on the run often pass themselves off as Sadhus to hide from the authorities.
So we began our day watching the sunrise with a little walk along the ghats up to the burning ghat where we witnessed cremations at varying stages of burning. We were given a private informative "tour" if you can call it that, about the traditions and particulars of the cremation ceremonies by a guide who easily spotted us amongst all the men. Women mourning their their families are not allowed to attend the burning ceremonies apparently because they "cry too much". We learnt all about the ceremonies, all about the sandalwood (100kg is required for each body) and its related costs. Sandalwood is used to cover up the smell of the burning corpse and is brought in by boats from down the river daily. The burning ghat is privately owned and its extremely expensive to be cremated there and even more so if you are a foreigner.
It is hard to describe in words the feeling of walking around the burning bodies whilst the cremations were taking place, amongst the male family members carrying out their own ceremonies. Trying to not look like a tourist and give our full respect (tis impossible to not look like a tourist though when you are obviously white and female) i had the same feeling wash over me as i had my last time in Varanasi when i was there in 2000.
This is a city which represents the place between life and death. Yes its true that bodies to be cremated here usually arrive already lifeless, having been brought here from all over India, but there is a heavy feeling that this is where the actual movement onto and into another world/realm takes place. In my opinion anyway.
But there is oh so much more to Varanasi than burning bodies and reincarnation, for which the city is most famous. At the ghats, along the river, the activity present in a normal day is endless.
Indian kids flying kites high in the sky competing against each other to get their kite the highest, people washing themselves and their clothes, others performing puja cleansing ceremonies in the water, sadhus meditating amongst the madness, families (and tourists) taking boat trips up and down the ganges, tourist snapping pictures and thinking about their next meal at the german bakery**, cows and goats searching for snacks, some even dressed up for the occasion*.
A trip to Varanasi, i beleive, is a must on everyone's itinerary coming to India. The city gives more insight into the Indian culture than any other city and is almost indescribable simply because there is just so much going on. Like every other Indian city you have your standard rickshaw drivers quoting extortionate prices to tourists and typical street markets, but Varanasi is also famous for it's silk factories and silk shops in which Do and i managed to buy ourselves a gorgeous scarf each. Or was it 2 each? :)
A Sadhu meditating at the Main Ghat. Sadhus are holy men who have renounced everything (family and possessions) and usually travel from city to city, living through donation only, carrying each a stick and tin can to collect their donations in. They are often bearded with dreadlocks piled high atop their heads. Also, it is said that, criminals on the run often pass themselves off as Sadhus to hide from the authorities. 
* I wasn't joking when i said the goats were dressed up. We weren't sure if this is a cruel joke or an attempt to help keep these goats warm from the misty cold mornings, but none-the-less it is an extremely funny sight seeing goats walking along the ghats in woolly cardigans and jumpers.
Typical scence down by the river. People washing their clothes and leaving them out to dry.
Another sadhu meditating amongst it all
Clothes left to dry in the sun, amongst them the colourful saris that indian women wear.
The locals taking in the magic of the Ganga
A scene taken from downstream looking upstream. Typical scene with boats on the water, smoky ambience coming from you know where.
Gorgeous sunset on the Ganga
Boat trip
Young indian boy out on the river
Market vendors in the back streets of Varanasi
** We ate at the German bakery at least once a day and thus, we highly recommend it! Mmmmmmmmmmmmm. Seems as if there is a greman bakery in every town in india, not many germans but yummy food none-the-less!
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